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Features

THE JOY OF
LESSER FOOD MILES

THE JOY OF Naturally, farm-to-table is more than just rhapsodising
THE ENVIES OF EATING about the pleasures of good taste. In his book “ e
ird Plate: Field Notes on the Future of Food”, Chef
AT THE BANJARAN FARM TO TABLE Dan Barber is acute to point out: “Our tastes have to
change. What we need is a new conception of food that
combines tastes based not on convention but rather
on the health of the environment that produces
Bristling with fresh, seasonal organic Food has a carbon footprint all its own, but by restoring the link between the farm them.” In our pursuit of intense flavour, we should be
produce, the farms at The Banjaran and the table, e Banjaran is searching for a greener way to produce every meal. challenged to look beyond individual ingredients
promise diners a culinary experience towards a broader picture – one that demonstrates how
land, communities, and taste benefit when ecology
that will leave them feeling not only full ere is nowhere quite like e Banjaran. Its secluded location on a private 22.7-acre valley informs the way we source, cook, and eat.
but spiritually satiated. estate cradled by geothermal hot springs, natural limestone caves and verdant hills is a winner.
Within, three organic gardens spanning 10,000 square feet collectively nourish a multitude of One of the perspectives to consider is “food mile”.
The Organic Form ula fruit-bearing trees and vegetables – the organic way. And they dictate the menu too. On a given Produce that have been picked up by a distributor,
Tan Sri Dr. Jeffrey Cheah had a dream. A venerable man who counts morning, breakfast may consist of a glass of freshly squeezed vegetable juice and an organic egg sent and stored at a warehouse, and delivered days later
Sunway City Kuala Lumpur – the exemplar of sustainable township – benedict with grilled garden tomato and sauteed mushrooms on the side. e greens collected to your favourite grocer before it arrives on your plate
among his legacy, wanted to create the next green facility on the much from the farms often appear in salads at lunch or garnish the main courses at dinner. may not be fresh nor environmentally preferable.
beloved city of Ipoh. A facility that would help the local economy and e Banjaran is all organic. Vegetables and herbs are free from Depending on how far it travels, its food miles can be
contamination of carcinogenic pesticides and chemical fertilisers. Fresh
provide jobs; a facility where he could indulge his passion for the business water from the limestone hills nourishes the crops while farmers huge, which translates to higher greenhouse gas
of Mother Nature; a facility with an entirely organic farm attached. carefully remove weeds by hand. For Chef Boon, it is another kind of The Joy Of emissions. Decreasing the distance from farm to table
Deciding that a luxury hospitality development based on a different paradise – one with hundred different things to play with. may dramatically decrease production, processing,
and transportation costs and improve food quality –
model could serve as an agent of change for a more sustainable future, Better Flavours a solution where everyone benefits.
e Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat opened in 2010 as the gem that would It is leafy green galore at both the Organic Garden and the eponymous Chef
later stretch Sunway’s success story farther north. Boon’s Garden, where crunchy lettuces and choy sum steeped in deep the mountains nurtures its gardens.
mineral will satisfy any skittish herbivore! Basketfuls of eggplants and Pesticide-free fruits and vegetables aside,
cucumbers are a common sight when in season. organic farmers use a variety of cover crops,
A New Food Movement planted specifically to enrich the soil, to keep
the land nutrient-rich and chemical-free. In
the kitchen, Chef Boon and his team
For many currently living in the hustle and bustle of urban cities, the meticulously compose seasonal fare based on
wellness retreat can seem like a refuge: backed by some of the earth’s peak harvest. Every flavour, texture, and
oldest inhabitants such as a five-million-year-old rainforest and colour pay homage to the beauty and bounty
260-million-year-old Paleozoic limestone hills, its 45 luxurious villas and ough dining establishments that bill of the field. ere is a cardinal rule, however:
spa offerings blend in seamlessly with their luscious surroundings, often themselves as farm-to-table – a term that depicts produce is only harvested at its peak ripeness;
putting on a spectacular display for ecotourists to see. But the key to e ingredients sourced locally or, in the case of when nutrients and flavours have had time to

Banjaran is also food. In this fast-food era, the gentle art of e Banjaran, grown in their own backyard fully develop and is guaranteed to elevate
“farm-to-table” has suddenly become a popular culinary activity. And at – make up just a tiny fraction of the every meal. By enlisting both the farming
e Banjaran, the perfect environment is rooted just beyond the Malaysian food scene, they are growing fast and culinary team in every food decision,
doorstep as it cultivates three organic gardens spanning over as the status of our diet dramatically changes. feeding the guests of e Banjaran becomes
10,000 sq. ft. for its retreat guests and restaurant patrons to relish in. e Herbal Garden, on the other hand, produces a surprising variety of herbs: More than just crisp white table linen a shared mission. e Banjaran aspires to educate its guests that they do
basil and cilantro, rosemary and thyme, sage and sweet basil, chervil and and Instagrammable interiors, today’s diners
“Farm-to-table dining reminds us about the things that really matter tarragon; you name it. A balance of tangy, sweet, and refreshing, permeates demand truth, trust, and transparency in their not have to exploit the planet or other people, nor
– our inseparable relationship with nature, our infinite capacity to the air, often tantalising one’s taste bud. food sources. e knowledge that fresh, local compromise on authentic experiences. After all, the
nurture, our imperative to live healthy and our inherent produce are good has spread far. Hailing all answer to creating a food chain that is truly
responsibility to the stewardship of the planet,” said Tan Sri Dr. In the months of February and July, the retreat also offers seasonal buffet the way from Berkeley, California where sustainable – one that does not take more from the
Jeffrey Cheah who has very particular ideas about the sustainable dining packages of durian, fresh from its land. Washed in jade and emerald, chartreuse chef, activist, author, and farm-to-table Earth than it leaves behind – already lies before them.
concept. Leave it to Chef Lee Choon Boon to convert the philosophy and lime, these farms make a colourful impression, almost like a work of art. pioneer Alice Waters is based, now our Witnessing their food moving from farm to table will
into something delicious and tangible. part of the world has begun to emulate the hopefully inspire them to have a greater respect for
Clearly, farm to fork at e Banjaran is a lot more than just cooking with trend too. their food: that long after returning to their city-based
e Banjaran’s executive chef is adamant to reflect the mandate in his what is around. Consciousness is expansive in both its visual and visceral life, all that used to be semantic to them including the
gastronomical creations. In other words, forget about standard menus. offerings. ey give us not only a window into the complex and astonishing e Banjaran, included, is embracing the new-found relationship with both the food they eat
Using a list of ingredients just plucked from the trees or harvested from the world of agriculture but also an opening for many good, heart-warming culinary renaissance. In the name of and the producers who provide it will remain. In the
ground, Chef Boon – as he is more fondly known – makes sure to moments as we are invited to reconnect with nature. In these current accountability, it is pouring laborious efforts words of Barber: “Like all great cuisines, it shall force
showcase the best of local ingredients, dishes and produce in every circumstances that spell much doom and gloom, it would be a welcomed and into tracing every step of its food creation us into a pattern of eating that adds rather than
gourmet meal, alongside e Banjaran’s thoughtful selection of wines much needed change. Just as Chef Boon concluded: “ is place is full of journey, literally from the farm to the subtracts, replenishes rather than drains.”
touted as one of the city’s best. vitality. Who wouldn’t love it?” dining table. Every day, fresh water from
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